Arriving at Madird International, we experienced a mix-up because our plane landed at Terminal 2, and the Nebraskans at Terminal 4. It didn't help that their flight was delayed a good hour. After sorting out the confusion, and a 17-stop metro later, we reached Peurta del Sol around 10pm. This is where
"Kilometer Zero" is, the point where all Spain's highway distances are measured from. Ooo -_-. Our hostel RC Miguel Angel was off nearby Calle del Arenal, a cosy lil' home business with a friendly tauke and helpful family. I shared an 8-bed dorm (22eu) with some cute American girls, sure don't see no cute girls in the UK. After a pretty good KFC supper (I'm NOT the biggest fan of Kentucky), me, Simon, Roy&Phing, strolled along the surrounding alleys. I think we pretty much covered the main streets in one night, passing by the cheap-looking Plaza Mayor, nice cafes located at sharp corners, clubs, Chinese massage therapists, and a
seedy street lined with prostitutes. Simon&I crapped so much that Phing said I didn't layan her.



Where's the palace?; amazing ceiling; cou-not-ple@oriental plaza
We had breakfast in the kitchen, then set-off for sightseeing courtesy of my direction, with CM chipping in his previous experience here. There's hardly any tourist spots in Madrid, but it's a nice place to just walk, walk, walk. Unfortunately, the weather was hot, hot, hot, a scorching
35 degs. Plazas seem to pop up every 200m, but our general direction was west along Calle Mayor. First spot was the Catedral de Neustra Senora de la Almuneda, a big but dissapointing-design cathedral. Next to it is the magnificent
Palacio Real, a royal palace reminiscent of Paris' Versailles, except the latter has a much more beautiful garden. A room-by-room tour of golden tables, crystal chandeliers, oriental designs, paintings (Caravaggios and Velazquez'!), wonderful ceilings, silverware that looks like the World Cup - quite impressive indeed.



Gran Via scenes
More gardens ensured - Plaza de Oriente, Jardines de Sabatini and Plaza de Espana. However, we were undone half-way by the weather, popping into a restaurant for a paella and San Miguel beer. My
pistachio gelato afterward was fantastic, and CM was raving about the gelateria waitress who could speak English. WH and his girl friend (note the space in betw) went off to confirm their Eurorail seats, while the rest of us slugged down Gran Via ("Great Way"). This main street is lined with modernist structures, but we were more concerned with hiding in the shade than looking at architecture. Eventually we reached the amusingly-named Plaza de Cibeles, then Plaza de Neptuno, where we split because I was the only one interested in art galleries. CM&co visited the great park El Retiro and did some lake rowing, which sprung some
cheeky stories hehe.



Phing likes Retiro trees; (ahem) Cibeless Plaza; rowing kings
Madrid has two world-class art galleries - the
Prado has an elite collection of Spanish, Flemish and Italian art from the 15th to 19th centuries; the
Reina Sofia showcases Spanish contempory culture. However, the main highlight was a joint
Picasso exhibition by both museums, which I was really
lucky to catch, having just started 2 dys ago. With a severe time limit of 2+ hrs, I raced through the expo, then the main highlights and fave artists of both museums. My fave Prado highlights: classic Botticelli & Raphael, Rennaisance masters Titian & Veronese, differing style but outstanding landscapes by Patenier & Lorrain, naturalists Rubens & Rembrandt, favoured Spanish Velazquez & de Zurbaran, and new-found love for Ribera. The museum has 7 rooms for Goya & El Greco too, but I've no love for their works. I only went to see Dali in Reina Sofia, and came out
so happy that words can't describe. I've seen pictures of these since I was 10!!





Madrid Museums highlights: (CW from top left)
Christ Falling on the Way to Calvary (Sicilia's Spasimo), Raphael, c.1516 - moody and intense
Charon Crossing the Styx, Joachim Patinir, ?? - Elysium on the left and Hell on the right, haunting and brilliant
The Three Graces, Peter Paul Rubens, c.1637 - joyful splendour of nude expressions
The Great Masturbator, Salvador Dali, 1929 - the title explains its extreme vulgarity
Las Meninas, Diego Velazquez, 1656 - wonderful family portrait, with a tinge of awkwardness and dysfunctionality
The Persistence of Memory, Salvador Dali, 1931 - reminds me of WKW movies instantly, must be the melting clocks
For someone who can't appreciate modern art beyond Dali, this trip has opened my
eyes to Picasso. Barcelona's Museu Picasso was an excellant introduction that showcased his transition from normal artist towards contempory juggernaut. I love the depressing Blue Period, Rose period was too happy, Cubism was as weird as Matisse' late works, respect for his Pacifist stance, and I just don't understand his 2 yr obsession with Velazquez'
Las Meninas. Having a great deal of Picasso during this trip, I admit I do
admire his vision and experimental mentality, although I've yet to become a true fan.





Revolutionary Picassos that I saw: (CW from top left)
Bread and Fruit Dish on a Table, 1909 - early Analytic Cubism
Las Meninas, 1957 - a unique take on Velazquez' masterpiece (see above)
Accordionist, 1911 - late Analytic Cubism
Massacre in Korea, 1951 - protests against indiscriminate killings of refugees by US soldiers, during the Korean War
La Vie (Life), 1902 - super-depressing painting questions life&death
Guernica, 1937 - anti-war salute to German bombing of Spanish town
Back in Madrid, we had an excellant dinner at an Italian-Spanish fusion restaurant. Bidding goodbye to the Nebraskans, the remaining 5 had a couple of drinks in Plaza Mayor before bed. A sluggish morning was given a kick by the local breakfast delicacy -
churros, Spain's version of 'yau char kuai', but dipped in chocolate! Followed up by souvenir shopping, the trip was gonna end on a high before I lost my wallet on the metro heading towards the airport. Dissapointed I let my guard down on the last day, but also lucky that only lil' cash and 2 ATM cards lost. However, this trip has been really fun & brilliant, so the mishap wouldn't be enough to potong stim. Hearing egostitical stories, yakking w/ Simon nonstop, planning maps & getting lost, telling CM to 'relax' (complete with hand action), having no chance to talk to Dog, and best of all, Joseph&Phing's infallibly amusing chemistry.
Thanks to all, and will be seeing Simon&WH soon enough.






CW from top left: knackered crew; best bud Team Malat President; sipping sangria; brilliant ppl; CM, relax..; The King & the Clown