25 June 2006

My Own Summer

A bewitching summer in Manchester indeed, 15-18degs is summer?! The extended daylight is very much welcome, though. To complement the run-up to World Cup Finals, I'm also in-line to attend gigs by Collective Soul, Deftones & Red Hot Chili Popiah. Can't wait, can't wait. The 'Chino' in my nick came from Deftones' lead singer Chino Moreno 9 yrs ago. 'Devean' is just a nice-sounding word. Furthermore, 3 outdoor music festivals will be held in the city centre end-July. One electronica, songwriters' competition & jazz festival. WOOHOO, can watch for free!

This morning, I enjoyed a leisurely stroll towards Castlefield, where exists remnants of a Roman Fort from 200 BC. Apparently this is where the first town in Manchester sprung up, a Roman outpost called Mamucium. Across Liverpool Rd is the Museum of Science & Industry, wide collection of stuff from this former industrial capital. Inside was a very interesting expo called 1001 Inventions, which showcased the Muslim heritage and how their inventions preceded many European inventions. However, having been to a few mammoth Chinese museums, I believe the Chinese are still a whole lot more advanced than the Muslims, what more the Europeans. One thing I would give them credit for is their mathematics, funny how our current numbers has a Hindu-Arabic origin. Arabic numerals, the 1 to 9 we use today, are said to be based on the number of angles contained in each numeral. Number 1 has one angle, 2 has two angles, and so on. See for yourself:



Interesting, ain't it? And 'zero' has a pretty long history too. After that, I went to the contempory artsy URBIS, which was hosting an interesting expo about Manc city 10 yrs after the IRA bombing. However, I couldn't find the postbox which 'survived' the bombing. Further on, I stumbled into the Chinese Art Centre, before settling for a hearty fish&chips in an English cafe. An ID made in URBIS, trying to signify the lack of privacy in city life:




Tram tracks in Piccadilly Gardens (courtesy of YW), instantly reminds me of my fave Beyond song 灰色軌跡 (Grey tram tracks):

踏著灰色的軌跡 盡是深淵的水影 我已揹上一身苦困 後悔 與唏噓
你眼裡卻此刻充滿淚 這個世界已不知不覺的空虛 喔哦...不想你別去


Don't leave, indeed.

20 June 2006

Spain pt.3 - Madrid & Art

Arriving at Madird International, we experienced a mix-up because our plane landed at Terminal 2, and the Nebraskans at Terminal 4. It didn't help that their flight was delayed a good hour. After sorting out the confusion, and a 17-stop metro later, we reached Peurta del Sol around 10pm. This is where "Kilometer Zero" is, the point where all Spain's highway distances are measured from. Ooo -_-. Our hostel RC Miguel Angel was off nearby Calle del Arenal, a cosy lil' home business with a friendly tauke and helpful family. I shared an 8-bed dorm (22eu) with some cute American girls, sure don't see no cute girls in the UK. After a pretty good KFC supper (I'm NOT the biggest fan of Kentucky), me, Simon, Roy&Phing, strolled along the surrounding alleys. I think we pretty much covered the main streets in one night, passing by the cheap-looking Plaza Mayor, nice cafes located at sharp corners, clubs, Chinese massage therapists, and a seedy street lined with prostitutes. Simon&I crapped so much that Phing said I didn't layan her.


Where's the palace?; amazing ceiling; cou-not-ple@oriental plaza


We had breakfast in the kitchen, then set-off for sightseeing courtesy of my direction, with CM chipping in his previous experience here. There's hardly any tourist spots in Madrid, but it's a nice place to just walk, walk, walk. Unfortunately, the weather was hot, hot, hot, a scorching 35 degs. Plazas seem to pop up every 200m, but our general direction was west along Calle Mayor. First spot was the Catedral de Neustra Senora de la Almuneda, a big but dissapointing-design cathedral. Next to it is the magnificent Palacio Real, a royal palace reminiscent of Paris' Versailles, except the latter has a much more beautiful garden. A room-by-room tour of golden tables, crystal chandeliers, oriental designs, paintings (Caravaggios and Velazquez'!), wonderful ceilings, silverware that looks like the World Cup - quite impressive indeed.


Gran Via scenes


More gardens ensured - Plaza de Oriente, Jardines de Sabatini and Plaza de Espana. However, we were undone half-way by the weather, popping into a restaurant for a paella and San Miguel beer. My pistachio gelato afterward was fantastic, and CM was raving about the gelateria waitress who could speak English. WH and his girl friend (note the space in betw) went off to confirm their Eurorail seats, while the rest of us slugged down Gran Via ("Great Way"). This main street is lined with modernist structures, but we were more concerned with hiding in the shade than looking at architecture. Eventually we reached the amusingly-named Plaza de Cibeles, then Plaza de Neptuno, where we split because I was the only one interested in art galleries. CM&co visited the great park El Retiro and did some lake rowing, which sprung some cheeky stories hehe.


Phing likes Retiro trees; (ahem) Cibeless Plaza; rowing kings


Madrid has two world-class art galleries - the Prado has an elite collection of Spanish, Flemish and Italian art from the 15th to 19th centuries; the Reina Sofia showcases Spanish contempory culture. However, the main highlight was a joint Picasso exhibition by both museums, which I was really lucky to catch, having just started 2 dys ago. With a severe time limit of 2+ hrs, I raced through the expo, then the main highlights and fave artists of both museums. My fave Prado highlights: classic Botticelli & Raphael, Rennaisance masters Titian & Veronese, differing style but outstanding landscapes by Patenier & Lorrain, naturalists Rubens & Rembrandt, favoured Spanish Velazquez & de Zurbaran, and new-found love for Ribera. The museum has 7 rooms for Goya & El Greco too, but I've no love for their works. I only went to see Dali in Reina Sofia, and came out so happy that words can't describe. I've seen pictures of these since I was 10!!







Madrid Museums highlights: (CW from top left)
Christ Falling on the Way to Calvary (Sicilia's Spasimo), Raphael, c.1516 - moody and intense
Charon Crossing the Styx, Joachim Patinir, ?? - Elysium on the left and Hell on the right, haunting and brilliant
The Three Graces, Peter Paul Rubens, c.1637 - joyful splendour of nude expressions
The Great Masturbator, Salvador Dali, 1929 - the title explains its extreme vulgarity
Las Meninas, Diego Velazquez, 1656 - wonderful family portrait, with a tinge of awkwardness and dysfunctionality
The Persistence of Memory, Salvador Dali, 1931 - reminds me of WKW movies instantly, must be the melting clocks

For someone who can't appreciate modern art beyond Dali, this trip has opened my eyes to Picasso. Barcelona's Museu Picasso was an excellant introduction that showcased his transition from normal artist towards contempory juggernaut. I love the depressing Blue Period, Rose period was too happy, Cubism was as weird as Matisse' late works, respect for his Pacifist stance, and I just don't understand his 2 yr obsession with Velazquez' Las Meninas. Having a great deal of Picasso during this trip, I admit I do admire his vision and experimental mentality, although I've yet to become a true fan.







Revolutionary Picassos that I saw: (CW from top left)
Bread and Fruit Dish on a Table, 1909 - early Analytic Cubism
Las Meninas, 1957 - a unique take on Velazquez' masterpiece (see above)
Accordionist, 1911 - late Analytic Cubism
Massacre in Korea, 1951 - protests against indiscriminate killings of refugees by US soldiers, during the Korean War
La Vie (Life), 1902 - super-depressing painting questions life&death
Guernica, 1937 - anti-war salute to German bombing of Spanish town

Back in Madrid, we had an excellant dinner at an Italian-Spanish fusion restaurant. Bidding goodbye to the Nebraskans, the remaining 5 had a couple of drinks in Plaza Mayor before bed. A sluggish morning was given a kick by the local breakfast delicacy - churros, Spain's version of 'yau char kuai', but dipped in chocolate! Followed up by souvenir shopping, the trip was gonna end on a high before I lost my wallet on the metro heading towards the airport. Dissapointed I let my guard down on the last day, but also lucky that only lil' cash and 2 ATM cards lost. However, this trip has been really fun & brilliant, so the mishap wouldn't be enough to potong stim. Hearing egostitical stories, yakking w/ Simon nonstop, planning maps & getting lost, telling CM to 'relax' (complete with hand action), having no chance to talk to Dog, and best of all, Joseph&Phing's infallibly amusing chemistry. Thanks to all, and will be seeing Simon&WH soon enough.



CW from top left: knackered crew; best bud Team Malat President; sipping sangria; brilliant ppl; CM, relax..; The King & the Clown

18 June 2006

Spain pt.2 - Gaudi & Waterfront

Spain consists of 17 autonomical districts, most having both legislative and financial autonomy. Wrecked by war and dictatorship during the first half of the 20th century, Spain has emerged as a fast developing nation that had no problem entering the EU in 1997. An illustrious history of Islamic renaissance and European empire, its developed culture and history attracted many envious glances, resulting its taking part in many wars. All this history contributed to the segmentation and fierce independent view of the spanish people. For example, Barca ppl would call themselves 'Catalans' and speak Catalan (Barcelona is in Catalonia), rather than say they're from 'Espanyol'.















Day 2 Barca started off promptly at Park Guell, a steep climb from metro stop Lesseps. We entered through the back gate, straight to the strange Hill of the Three Crosses (Calvary). Coming around to the brilliantly coloured serpentine plaza, doric collonades, organic-looking rock support columns, flower beds, gingerbread houses and of course, the salamander. An interesting fact: the plaza was constructed such that the rainwater from the plaza was re-directed to come out as a fountain from the salamander's mouth!! Simply amazing. More Gaudi pictures are found in a previous Gaudi post or friendster.


Fei Zhai trying to act cute; hanging on for dear life for the sake of photography; more useless photos


A bocadillo (baguette roll) and metro stop later, we were at what probably is the only unfinished cathedral in the world - La Sagrada Familia ("The Sacred Family") embodies all of Gaudi's belief and naturalistic concepts. Being typical Malaysians, we gawk, took photos, and complaint incessantly about the progress. Really, more than a 100 yrs and it's still 50% complete? NO SIESTA HAHA. There were original plans in the underground museum, and we also spent an hour getting stuck in a jam, trying to climb up the 400+ odd steps tower.



CW from top left: Hosanna in Escelsis; Gethsemane; The Passion facade; Body & Blood of Christ; stained glass window; and finally, NO FINISH NO SIESTA HAHAHA


Phing&I were surprised that the day's itinery was becoming Gaudi Day, but we still led our less-than-impressed crew to La Pedrera (Casa Milla). I was highly impressed by the structure and showcase apartment, tranfixed by the excellant Gaudi museum, but I just didn't get the rooftop designs. It looks like moulding play-doh into fingers, flowers and a stupa. A brief hostel stop later, we had a high-quality, small-portion dinner at restaurant QuQu, leaving somebody complaining to no end about the portions. A hilarious episode in Zara ensured, when somebody was feeling paiseh shopping for the gf, 'diao diao diao' non-stop hahaha. We enjoyed a night stroll towards Placa de Catalunya, where the Dog can buy his Hard Rock Cafe shot glasses. Continuing through El Raval, Barca's version of Rusholme, searching for Phing's ideal kebab shop, we walked seedy alleys and stumbled into a dodgy former-hospital-turned-plaza. The day ended with a refreshing chat at the hostel bar - free drinks, Paris and dodgy relationships, very interesting night indeed hehe.















On a more relaxed 3rd day, we strolled down Barceloneta towards the beach. Brilliant sunshine, nudes, hazy horizon, nudes, smell of sea and sand in feet, I thought I was back in Redang. Ah, the difference is ppl sunbathe topless here! More fooling around with slippers, camwhores, and sunblock, then the group split - WH etc for city centre shopping, and Manc gang for more sightseeing. After a stupid detour, we found our way to Parc de la Ciutadella, beautiful park right next to the city zoo. Pretty landscape, old buildings (incl. the parliament!), mammoth statues, oriental pavilions and the super-chun Cascada, emerging like a red rose among the white. Walking past the zoological dept building (formerly a castle), we headed for Barcelona's version of the Arc de Triomf (yeaps, correct spelling). With a severe time limit, we split again - Roy&Phing towards the post office, CM for food, and I rushed to Zara. Some expensive frankfurters later, we've hauled our luggage into the aerobus heading for Barcelona International.



CW from top left: Splendid scenery, CM&Phing korean drama moment; random pavilion; triumphal arch in backgroung; sublime Cascada

Spain pt.1 - Barcelona, sights

What started out as an invite by Nunie to Barcelona, ended up with a mini Team Malat reunion, an excursion to Madrid, and another Fei Zhai target in Phing. The brilliant 8-team consists of: myself, CM, Joseph, Phing, Roy, Simon, Doggie WH and his target HL. Manc Piccadilly - Arriva 700 - Liverpool John Lennon - ryanair - Barcelona Girona, and hualah.. the Nebraskans were waiting for us. Just feels good to see them, and of course me & Simon get to crapalot throughout the trip. By the time we trekked to Centric Point Hostel and checked into separate dorms (mine was a 12-bed, 18eu), it was midnight, just right for a tapas supper with german beer. I could nvr rmb the name of drinks I had. It was decided unofficially then, that Phing would be tour leader, with me chipping in suggestions, since we're the only ones that bother to do any research beforehand.















Team Malat reunion@Montjuic; the 8-crew@St. Sebastian Beach


Funny enough, we both got up late the next day, me because my mobile clock was still UK time. However, I still had a headstart, visiting the quirky buildings nearby - Casa Lleo Morera, Casa Amattler, Gaudi's Casa Battlo, and Fundacio Tapies. The hostel's location was excellant, on Passieg de Gracia, with a metro station right outside, and 10mins walk to city centre Placa de Catalunya. Transportation was delightfully cheap, a 10-trip metro pass cost only 6.65eu, and can be shared.




Modernist architecture: Casa Lleo Morera (1905 by Lluís Domènech i Montaner); Casa Amattler (1900 by Puig i Cadafalch); Fundacio Tapies (1885 by Montaner)


Montjuic was the first stop, a hilltop park located in the SW region. No less of complaints, but our troupe led by the two flip-flop wearing leaders, still trekked up to Castell de Montjuic. Lovely overview of the city and ports, the MU fan also posed with cannons eerily similiar to Arsenal's logo. Then again, he was posing with everything and anything, earning the nickname 'Photoboy', still unbeknownst to him hehe. Coming downhill in a tourisy tram which sounded like its wheels would fall off any moment, we hopped off at Placa d'Espanya. 7 cameras powered up = photostops at the monumental Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, a pair of bell towers modelled after Venice's St. Mark's, and the circular Placa de Toros. Since I wasn't too keen to try bull's testicles, we didn't watch any bullfights (toros) during this trip.



CW from top left: Malats@Castell de Montjuic; posing Phing; Roy the Gunner; city view w/ Simon; towers & toros; Catalonian Art Museum


Getting off the metro stop Drassanes ("dockyard"), we were greeted by the Monument a Colom, a statue of Columbus covered with pigeon shit. It's even worse than Nelson's Column in London's Trafalgar Sq, too bad couldn't get a good shot because of the afternoon sun. This is where the 'happening' boulevard Las Ramblas starts, lined with news kiosks, street artists and cafes. For lunch, I had a falafel whilst the others had a bite at ol'Mac. It was a pleasant surprise that Barca had many gelaterias, so an ice-cream a day was a staple. This was what was most enjoyable about Barcelona - one can just stroll around the streets, plenty to see, feeling pleasant and mighty happy, gelato in hand. Just like a stroll through Covent Gardens with Ben's Cookies, or SS2 Pasar Malam with Deep Fried Sotong. However, we did miss some sights in Las Ramblas - Mercat de la Boqueria (wet market) sau tong already, and Gaudi's Placa Reial was being renovated.


Scenes along Las Ramblas


Next is the adjointing Barri Gotic ("Gothic Quarter"), where the 'old' Barcelona started off. Full of tight alleys, gothic buildings and wide plazas, it was a wonderful maze indeed. The buildings encircle the outstanding Cathedral, a church that ranks up there among the best I've seen around the world. Serene tiny garden, high gothic arches, glittering statues and alters every 10 steps - simply blew me away. We then chilled to a street performing couple's (guitar & accordian) sensual tunes, getting a relaxed half-hour's rest.





(top) Me and my deranged buddy; (bottom) Cathedral interior


Onwards to La Ribera, also a medieval area, was the elegant Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar, with the most impressive stained glass collection I've seen in a while. Thank the summer sun, but we still had time to have a go at the Museu Picasso. Similiar to Amsterdam's Van Gogh Museum, it houses a comprehensive collection of Picasso's work, arranged in a chronological layout, although none of his most famous works were there. A good hour was spent there charting Picasso's revolutionary shift towards the contempory, although there were plenty laughs too, courtesy of Joseph. His 'l**j***' comment about an obscene sketch of a waiter flashing his birdie at a couple sure left us in stitches. Still, that pic was nothing compared to Dali's fascination with depicting female genitalia as lobsters, evident in London's Dali Universe. More Picasso is still to come later in the trip, so any artistic commentary will be left till then.



CW from top left: chillin'; The Lazy Tour; duh roadsign; cheeky posse; a post office that looks like a senate


Apparently it was some Catalonian holiday, and there were small street parties happening as we headed towards La Barceloneta for dinner. People dressed as vikings weilding huge plastic axes and dancing sure was amusing indeed. After getting lost trying to find a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet (the add was correct!), we settled in a roadside restaurant amongst many, thanks to the waiter's welcoming cheeky grin. Sangria, mussels, sashimi-like salad, grilled cuttlefish, fried baby octopus, paella, and me&Phing's extremely-salty-cod. A fulfilling fest ends with a walk, a metro, and Simon tumbling into bed and snoring immediately. I'm still amazed at the ground we covered in one day, very accomodating entourage indeed haha.